How To Make Any Land Metal Detector's Operation Wireless - Tutorial, page 9
Use Automotive Rubber Wire Harnesses To Protect Transmitter Cable
The second important part of the project was to construct a protective harness for the transmitter-to-detector connecting cable - stereo audio cable with 3.5 mm jack plugs, which was included in the wireless headphone system package. Because the cable was supposed to be used with a home audio source, its length was too long for my setup. As I did not want to shorten it and possibly mess up the cable shielding (the shield reduces electrical noise from other electrical sources that may affect the signals), there seemed to be a problem in finding a way to make the cable compactly folded and of a certain length without cutting.
The easiest solution was to use automotive wire harnesses - corrugated rubber tubes, and wire sleeves that are available in any auto parts store and cost little. So I purchased a variety of them to reach my objective.
Automotive Wire Harness Corrugated Rubber Tubes and Sleeves
The corrugated tubes are wide enough so that I could easily fold the cable and pack it inside the tubes as well as change its length if necessary. I decided to start constructing the cable harness from the transmitter end. The harnessed cable should run around and above the container so that any contact with rocks, lumps of hard soil and other debris on the ground would be avoided or, at least, minimized.
I started with a rubber tube that had a right-angled opening at one end. This way, the harness would perfectly follow the cable's path from the start. I pulled the "free" end of the connecting cable through the tube and later repeated this procedure with all other rubber tubes I utilized to complete the cable harness construction.
Corrugated Rubber Tube with Right-Angled Opening At "Transmitter" End of Connecting Cable
Before pulling and fixing the rubber tube over the connector, I had to make sure that the tube would not slide backwards off the connector's body after being constricted by a zip tie. A small "bulb" at the "wire" end of the connector could keep the zip tie in place. To make the "bulb", I used electrical tape which I cut in two narrow lengths.
Then I wound the lengths over a proper spot, so the connector's body bulged at the end.
And I pulled the rubber tube over the connector and secured it with a couple of zip ties.
At the second turn of the connecting cable, I used an S-shaped molded rubber pipe into which I inserted a straight corrugated rubber tube and also secured it with a zip tie.
At the straight segment of the cable path, I used two corrugated tubes, one of which was inserted into another and fitted externally over a short length of a rubber pipe in order to make a reinforced joint. The joint was also secured with two zip ties. Most of the connecting cable had been harnessed.